Charcoal, Time, and Umpire Pants

At first glance, these **Sumi Umps Pants** from Japanese brand **JACKMAN** are understated. Look closer, and their depth begins to reveal itself.

They’re made from charcoal-dyed cotton, a material with a long functional history. Long before charcoal became associated with sustainability, it was used as a natural dye for its antibacterial and insect-repellent qualities. In the early 20th century, it even found its way into baseball uniforms, chosen for practicality as much as durability.

For this release, the fabric is brushed first, then dyed using an intentionally analog process. The result is a softly muted surface with a worn-in tone from the start. With time and washing, the fabric creases and fades naturally, much like denim, developing character unique to the wearer.

The design is based on vintage baseball umpire pants. A large gusseted pocket runs from waist to hip, originally meant to hold spare balls. The fit is relaxed through the waist and sharply tapered at the hem, balancing ease with structure. An elastic waistband with drawcord allows for everyday comfort without losing shape.

This is a piece defined by utility, material honesty, and time. Quiet by nature, it reveals more the longer it’s worn.